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		<title>Replace on Ruby Infrared Elements</title>
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				<title>How to replace blow molding lamp</title>
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				<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2026 10:25:02 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ruby-ir-element.com/images/1b9c2637d312f5383b58ed80f7a6411b.png&#34; alt=&#34;How to replace blow molding lamp&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-the-heat-right-in-husky-hypet-systems&#34;&gt;Getting the Heat Right in Husky HyPET &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;Systems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you&amp;rsquo;re running high-speed PET blowing, you know the struggle. You need the heat to soak deep into the center of the preform wall, but you can&amp;rsquo;t just blast it and scorch the surface. It&amp;rsquo;s a balancing act. In the Husky HyPET world, we handle this with some very specific shortwave infrared (SWIR) tuning and a lot of wattage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;the-power-side-of-things&#34;&gt;The Power Side of Things&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep those &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;cycle&lt;/a&gt; times fast, you can&amp;rsquo;t mess around with low-power lamps. We use high-voltage, high-wattage setups. Why? Because it lets us keep the footprint small while still pumping out the thermal energy needed for those thick-walled preforms.&#xA;It’s all about that concentrated heat flux. You need the plastic to hit its glass transition temperature fast. If your wattage is lagging, you&amp;rsquo;ll start seeing those annoying cold spots in the bottle base or uneven stretching. Nobody wants that.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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