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		<title>20 on Ruby Infrared Elements</title>
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				<title>Replacement lamp for Sidel SBO 20 Series 2</title>
				<link>http://ruby-ir-element.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sidel-sbo-20-series-2/</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2026 21:46:15 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ruby-ir-element.com/images/39c83d3196bbeefc767ea49907038348.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for Sidel SBO 20 Series 2&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-the-heat-right-for-pet-preforms&#34;&gt;Getting the Heat Right for PET Preforms&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you&amp;rsquo;re heating a PET preform, the goal isn&amp;rsquo;t just to make the surface hot. That&amp;rsquo;s a rookie mistake. You need that infrared energy to actually sink deep into the plastic wall without torching the outside. If you&amp;rsquo;re running Sidel SBO 20 Series 2 or Husky HyPET high-speed lines, that&amp;rsquo;s exactly why we built our replacement lamps the way we did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;the-science-of-the-deep-soak&#34;&gt;The science of the &amp;ldquo;deep soak&amp;rdquo;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the thing: to get heat to pierce through the wall quickly, you need short-wave infrared (SWIR). We play around with specific quartz blends and halogen fills to make sure the light spectrum is hitting exactly where it needs to.&#xA;It&amp;rsquo;s a balancing act. If the power density is too low, you end up with cold spots and bottles with wonky wall thickness. But push it too hard? You&amp;rsquo;ll burn the resin. We spec &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; tubes to hit that sweet spot right in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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